Friday, September 2, 2011

Festivals Without Borders





Durga puja with its ritualistic cultural and other dimensions , have been a topic of my passion since childhood . As a kid I used to sculpt tiny clay images of Durga for worship in my home . In my high school days ,with my intensive efforts and amidst strong opposition ,that small plaything fledged into a full scale Durgotsav at my home .

Even now it is me who sculpt the pratima and sit down at the puja . Our ambition is "back to the roots". Our pratima is traditional bangla daaker saaj pratima . Evrything , including the saaj and the pata painting on the chalchitra is handmade in home . This year we celebrated our 9th year of puja . We stick to all the rituals meticulously and collect all items to be used in puja first hand . The list includes difficult items like waters of ocean , dew , all pilgrimages , Saraswati river . Clay from tip of boar and elephants tusks , from the courtyard of temple , kings palace and prostitute quarters etc .


This requires meticulous planning and unbound enthusiasm all year round.


 My friends and their parents come forward to lend a hand and that is how we have been able to organise this labour intensive festival so peacefully .


Today my parents and friends all participate actively in the festivities . The once tiny affair is now a proper puja .

 

Since we believe in tradition and also care for its revival,our methods are also traditonal as far as possible . The construction of the pratima starts in home right after 'kathamo puja' in Rathayatra . The eyes are painted on Mahalaya . The 'bodhan' starts on Shashti morning . In evening maa is awakened through songs and bhajans . Thereafter the main puja begins from Saptami . On the Ashtami morning we hold an elaborate kumari puja . Sandhi puja , the confluence time of ashtami and navami is also celebrated as per the stiuplated time with much gusto . On navami the homa ritual takes place . Being of vaishnava descent we do not offer animals in sacrifice . All the bhoga offered to the goddess is completely vegetarian .

On dashami , keeping in sync with the age old bengali traditions , Devi is offered a bhoga of 'panta bhaat' and 'kochur saak' . The final farewell through 'boron' starts in afternoon . After which the ladies participate in sindoor khela .





After the immersion of the pratima in Ganges we return to our home for shantijal and then feast on 'machh bhaat , dodhikarma and siddhi drinks ' . This way our much loved durgotsav comes to an end for one whole year.

The plannings for the next begin immediately on that day itself ! And it is her auspicious agaman every year that keeps us joyous and happy all year round .



The images of Mother Durga here is somewhat special and different.

Only Two hands of Mother Durga is visible to people, the other Eight hands, smaller in size, are kept hidden by long Hairs. Thus Mother Durga appears to be “Dwibhuja” at Bhowanipore Mitra Family.

It is known This is on account of a "Swapnadesh" (order through Dream) to someone in the Family who seems to have offered only Two Gold Bangles to Mother. The Mother again came in Dream and was cheerful and decided to be worshipped in Mitra Family in the said order and style.

Here Lion is having its head which looks very close to Horse and painted all white with manes and moustache in black. Ganesh and Kartick wears Than, Dhuti and Chaddar made of Cotton. Lakshmi and Saraswati do not come with their Bahans (Carriers) but instead stands on Lotus Flowers.

After the decoration is completed by the Kumars (Artists), the Dieties are further individually decorated with Gold and Silver Ornaments, Weapons, Instruments etc meant and preserved for them by the Family.
In olden days Puja used to start from Pratipad but at present from Panchami day. The Bodhan is held at Thakurghar, the Pratima Puja is celebrated at Puja Mandap. This grants access to Public to watch, Worship and offer Prayers.

With start of Puja on Saptami morning, the Member of the Family in whose name Puja is conducted (Sankalpa) authorises Purohit to perform worshipping, on his behalf. He has to remain in fast for the whole day till end of Aarati in Evening and can take only Bhog offered to Diety.
On Saptami morning Kalabau is taken for holy Bath, on the Mandap itself (instead of at Ganga Ghat like other family Pujas, as being considered as Family Daughter-in-law and cannot go for outside bathing), with various Ingredients, Perfumes etc and Sacred Waters collected from various Rivers of India. After a Befitting Dress, Ornaments etc she is attached to the Pratima, next to Ganesh for worshipping.

Like Kalabau, Griha Lakshmi is placed close to the Pratima for daily worshipping.

With the start of Puja a big Earthen Lamp is lit with Ghee made of Cow-Milk, and kept inside a large Earthen Vessel. This Lamp is kept non-stop burning till the end of Puja on Dasami. On Dasami the Earthen Vessel is filled with Ganges Water mixed with Termuric and placed in front of Pratima in such a position, it helps to reflect the Body of Mother Durga, from Face to Toe, to indicate the complete Immersion of the Image worshipped. Mantras specially meant for the occasion are chanted while this process of immersion continues.
Offering of 1008 nos. of Billapatra absolutely Clean, Clear, Untorn and Spotless are made in Homagni from Saptami to Navami days at the Jogyakundu. The log of Wood is kept burning during the specified period under vigilant watch.

Being non-Brahmins, one cannot offer Annabhog in the Morning but instead a ‘Sital’ (which includes Luchi, Vegetables fried in Ghee, Curd and Sweets) is offered in the Evenings on the Puja days. Worshipping Kumari Puja on Aastami and Sadhaba Puja on Navami are performed by the Women folks of the Family.

Sandhi Puja, a 'must' Puja is performed at the juncture of Astami and Navami, within limited period for 48 minutes. Various articles for use of Mother Durga, including Sari, Bangles, Perfumes, Utensils, Beddings Naibedya (with all kinds of Fruits and Sweets etc) are offered on this occasion. A set of 108 Oil Lamps (in Earthen Pots) are lit at the time of this Puja. Also offering and worshiping with 108 Padma (Lotus) Flowers is a must.

In earlier days Buffaloes and Goats were slaughtered in front of Mother Durga in the Courtyard and offered to Her as Puja. This process has been discarded in 1924 A.D. with change of time. However the items continues with cutting of Akkh, Coconut and Chalkumra.
On Dasami with chanting of Mantras Aparajita Creeper is tied on the Hands of all Dieties and then to all Members of the Family from Old to Newborn, Male and Female.

On evening of Dasami after different Rituals and Sindur Khela by the Women folks of the Family, Pratima is carried to Ganges River for actual immersion. The Frame is taken back Home and kept reserved for use in next year.
 
 Durga Puja is all about celebration the victory of ‘Shakti’, good over the ‘evil’, Maa Durga over Mahishasura and that’s what Durga Puja means to all. It is the time for sharing delightful moments with your family and friends. City of joy is almost charged up 24*7 during the four auspicious days of puja. Wearing new attires, sitting for long ‘adda’ sessions, going for pandal hopping, having yummy food- they are perhaps the essence of puja. It is the greatest festival celebrated to give rise to a universal brotherhood.
The founder of well known Shib-Durga Puja at Dwarika Bhawan is the great Dwarka Nath Dutta. He was a believer of Shib and prefer peace rather than power. Once Dwarka Nath Dutta dreamt a dream of “Hara Gouri Murti”. Soon he established the Shib-Durga Puja in 1855.The then “Prabhakar” , a well-known Bengali magazine , edited by Shri. Ishwar Chandra Gupta, remarked that “In Thanthania Dutta Bari, the Durga Puja was one of the three leading autumnal ceremonies where ‘Shaibs’ were entertained and ‘Nauches’ heightened the pomp and éclat.


The grand Durga Puja has been celebrated by the successors of Dwarka Nath Dutta since 156 years. The Durga Puja of Dwarika Bhawan is unique with its traditional approach. Here Durga maa is emerged with smiling face( Mrinmoyee). On the left of Maa Durga , Kartika and Saraswati are being articulated and on the right , Laxmi and Ganesh exist.. The decoration of the Durgadalan, puja rituals are distinct in style.During the time of the great Dwarka Nath Dutta , this puja had been observed with spectacle and  dignity . Although, the lavishness of puja has faded away a bit, but yet in term of sanctity and devotion, this puja is being top listed by the quality viewers. In the recent time, West Bengal Tourism organize “Puja Parikrama” with top five Baroari pujas along with five heritage pujo of Bonedi Bari. The puja of Dwarika Bhawan is enlisted on top of the table.


As per tradition, Dutta family observes Durga puja for ten days. Her arrival starts the Devipaksha. The day is being observed as 'Mahalaya', the day of invocation. In the dark night of amabasya , people pray to Goddess Durga to arrive in the earth to ward off all evils. On the dawn of 'Mahalaya', homes in Bengal resonate with the immortal verses of the 'Chandipath' . On Sashti, when Goddess Durga is welcomed with much fanfare and gusto.
Look for the 'Bodhon' rituals when Goddess Durga is unveiled. The priest ceremonially establishes life in the clay image and from now on till the tenth day, the image is treated as the goddess herself. Saptami is the first day of Durga puja. Kola Bow or Nabapatrika is given a pre-dawn bath. This is an ancient ritual of worshiping nine types of plants. They are together worshiped as a symbol of the goddess. The main Saptami Puja follows Kalparambho and Mahasnan. The Maha Ashtami commences with Ashtami Puja , followed by Arati and Puspanjali. The a special ritual takes place, i.e “Dhuno porano”, where the married women hold burning Malsas on their palms and heads, praying for the peace and prosperity of their children as well as families. People from all around the corner of Kolkata witness this august celebration. During Sandhi Puja , the entire courtyard of Dwarika Bhawan is filled with hymns of spiritual Mantras.

In the olden time, Dutta family used to give ‘Noibedya’ with 14 monn (560 kgs) Atap Rice and 5 monn grinded sugar , now the present generation give 5.25 kuintal (525 kgs) Atap Rice and 1 kunital grinded sugar. During the time of high price of the essential commodities, how Dutta family manages to afford these ? Mr. Sujit Kumar Dutta, one of the successors of Dwarka Nath Dutta intimated “ We have completed our 156th Durga Puja Celebration and this has become possible because of the blessing of our Kuldevta Sreedhar Jeu and obviously by the grace of Maa Durga.” 

Mallabhumer Mrinmoyee –  A 1013 years old Saga

Bishnupur has a glorious past that is reflected in its rich architecture, music and handicrafts such as pottery and weaving. Ruled by an uninterrupted line of Hindu Rajas of the Malla dynasty, Bishnupur developed a unique form of architecture and has perhaps the most brilliant and detailed terracotta work in Eastern India that has withstood the ravages of time.
Among the later Hindu kings of Bengal, the Malla occupied a place of distinction not only for their military proficiency but also for their patronage to the development of distinctive styles of arts, architecture, sculpture, and music. Raghunath was crowned as the first king of Malla dynasty at Pradamnapur. To commemorate his ascending of throne, a new calendar, 'Mallabda' was started in 695 A.D. or 101 Bengali calendar. King Raghunath became known as Adi Malla and the land, he ruled came to be known as 'Mallabhum'. It was in 994 A.D. King Jagat Malla shifted his capital from Pradamnapur to Bishnupur because of better geographical safeguard as Bishnupur lies surrounded by hilly terrain. 


The past fame graces the fragrance of Lalmaati (Red Soil). Even today the clanking of swords can be heard if you place your ear on the stone walls. Although Bishnupur is famous for its Terracotta tradition, yet it stands embracing tradition of the oldest Durga Puja of West Bengal, ranged about 1013 years. It was the time when this noted city was ruled by the Malla Kings with splendor.
Now, we can feel the changes everywhere…. In the atmosphere, the life style, and in the mind-set of people too. But no such changes have occurred in the rituals of offering puja in the mandir of Maa Mrinmoyee and even today the tradition is kept alive and unaltered as it was practiced during the supremacy of the royal Mallas. The piety of the forefathers of Malla dynasty and the deep reverence of the people of Bishnupur over this pujo remains unchanged. So, every year the pujo of Maa Mrinmoyee is being dedicated on following the universal spirit. Let’s come for a while to peep into the immemorial heritage of the royal kings of Mallas.


Thinking about the permanent settlement in Bishnupur, King Jagat Malla established Mrinmoyee Mandir in 997 A.D. Myth says that Jagatmalla had a dream, where he was instructed by Maa mrimmoyee to make a mandir. That was the beginning of worshipping Maa Mrinmoyee. The idol is made of “Ganga Clay”. Today, the lineage of offering homage to maa Mrinmoyee is inherited by the 57th generation of the Malla dynasty Shri. Salil Singha Thakur, the younger son of Lt. Shri. Kalipada Singha Thakur.

The Durgotsab in Mrinmoyee mandir commences with the setting up of Ghat (Clay Pot). The Faujdaari Community  of Shakhari Bazaar used to make and design the pot for worshipping Maa Mrinmoyee . But a heart-rending story floats in the air of Bishnupur…. While making the pot one of the artisans died in an unknown cause. Since then, people of the Faujdaari Community do not dare to make Ghats for Malla Rajas. Therefore, the puja of Maa Mrinmoyee is done by wrapping cloth over the old ghat. A day after “Dwityaashtami” the festivity begins with the worship of “Baro thakurini”.
On the day of “Maan chaturthi” , “Mejo thakurini” comes  under the makeup of “Kola Bou”. It is to be said that after observing the rituals of the puja , “Mejo thakurini” returns  and  on the auspicious day of Maha Saptami , she appears again along with “Chhoto Thakurani”. Then the gate opens for the general public to offer their puja. The hymns Durga stotra resound the mandir precinct. On the propitious moment of Maha Ashtami, thousands of devotees assemble in and around the mandir courtyard. Even foreigners come from different parts of the world and take part in the puja. The philharmonic essence fills the air and a pious mood is being created gradually.


The youth of Mahadanda Community (Commonly known as ‘Madhod’) takes the Canon to the “Mochchha Hill”, just adjacent to the “Pathor Dorja”. Generation after generation, they fire the canon during the august moment of “Sandhikshan” (The time between Ashtami and Navami). They take temporary shelter in the mandir premises during the puja period….The time passed by………The moment arrives……… The flow of fire runs through the gun powder. Tremendous roar of the canon spreads all around. The “Boli” sets in motion. Obeying the law and order, the sacrifice of animal is prohibited in the present time. So, the vegetables are offered as sacrifice to the goddess. Almost every person of Bishnupur gets invitation on Navami puja. The humming of incantation buzzes around. Such constancy and devotion are rarely found as it is said that God can be found through constant and consistent pursuance of faith.
The Bhog is made of Baadshah bhog Rice at the mandir of maa Mrinmoyee. From ‘Dwityaashtami’ to ‘Shashthi’, the khichuri rice is cooked. On Saptami, Ashtami and Navami, the plain rice is delivered with the variety of vegetables. At the night of Navami, the existing members of the royal malla perform ‘Mahamaarir Pujo’ praying to maa Mrinmoyee for the survival from the outbreak of epidemic. 
In this particular puja no public participation is being entertained. “It’s rather a family puja, only the kith and kin of the royal family and the priest can be present in the ‘Garvo griho’ of the mandir”, said Shri. Salil Singha Thakur. The bhog is prepared with 5 poaa (1.25 Kg) Baadshah bhog rice, 5 poaa Mug daal (Pulse), 5 poaa Pure ghee, green bananas and Sandhak Salt , which is distributed only among the members of the royal family and this bhog has to be taken before awaking of birds and beasts.


All the puja ritual are being performed with deep devotion. It seems a remarkable moment for those who offer puja to maa mrinmoyee. On the day of Bijoy Dashami, maa takes stale rice. The people of “Nuley community” of Rautkhand village, 14 kms away from Bishnupur come to Raajbari with “Tyaskhan Pakhi” (Neelkantha Bird) and the local fishermen offer ‘curd’ and ‘Chang fish’ to the goddess . They free the Neelkantha bird to fly in the azure sky and put chang fish in the pot, consists of curd. It’s a proud moment for anyone who experiences the oldest puja of West Bengal. 
The ‘Vijay Jatra’ (victory procession) sets forth with huge amount of applause and courage. According to the primitive tradition of Rajbari, the immersion of the idol of maa mrinmoyee is forbidden. Consequently, flowers and leaves are being immersed in the nearby pond namely Ramshayor. 
To restore this oldest time honored puja of Bengal and its deep rooted culture, people of Bishnupur shower their blessings. 
The ‘baroari’ puja of Bhowanipur Sanatan Dharmatsahini Sabha on Balaram Bose Ghat Road in Bhowanipore is the oldest community Durga Puja in Kolkata. The first community Durga Puja was held here in 1910 when the city was addressed as “Calcutta” and was the capital of British India. Since then the Durga Puja  has been  celebrating without any break with tremendous solemnity and splendor. Last year Bhowanipur Sanatan Dharmatsahini Sabha esteemed their Centenary Celebration. For the first time in the history of this puja, a professional has been hired to think up a theme while light magicians had been invited  from Chandannagar for the gorgeous illumination. Some of the great men initiated to bring Bengal’s greatest festival out of the confines of the courtyards of babus to street corners.


The puja, which has never courted the spotlight,was started by Khagendranath Shastri, president Geeta Mahasabha and was supported by luminaries like Shyama Prasad Mukherjee, writer Premendra Nath Mitra, mathematics teacher Keshav Chandra Nag and actress Molina Devi over the years. The venue of the puja has a history, having seen a double satidaha in 1829 when it was a burning ghat. A stone plaque commemorating the immolation of Sati and Debi, two daughters of the Mukherjee family that owned the ghat then, now rests at Indian Museum. The Calcutta Municipal Corporation has declared the site a heritage spot. 
Flanking the ekchala Durga on each side will be the 10 dashamahavidyas, or the 10 forms that Sati took to convince Shiva to let her go on her own to her father Daksha’s yajna. The entry to the ghat will be turned into a makeshift temple and at the exit will be placed the dashavatar, or the 10 incarnations of Vishnu. The puja has a tradition of jatra, kirtan, Chandigaan and shehnai recitals. The centenary schedule includes a musical evening, a football match involving celebrities, an eye camp and a blood donation campaign. During the four days of pujas, the sabha distributes free clothes and garments to the poor and needy thereby humbly attempting to eradicate social inhomogenity. This is special, not only for its presentation, but also for the deep rooted tradition, it has been holding since more than 100 years.
 


The founder of the Andul Raj family, Late Ram Charan Roy had a very humble beginning. Out of his zeal, perseverance and tenacity he became well versed in “Farsi” the widely used court language of the period. His just and judicious observations finally brought him to legal profession. During this time English traders have just landed in the shore of Bengal and they were in desperate need of local support as interpreter and business partners. Here Ram Charan played a key role and soon became a trustworthy source for them. The glorious days of Andul Raj Bari started after the decisive win of the battle of Plassy.



He was granted ‘Dewanship’ and soon became one of the leading landlord of the region. He was also recommended for “Raja” title by Clive whom he politely requested for hi s son Ramlochan, who was well accomplished and literary scholar. The request was duly accepted. Lord Clive gifted him a huge cannon which is still lying in the portico of the palace. The scholars, doctors, teachers who were inhabitants of  of Hoogly were offered tax-free land to settle at Andul .




The place was gradually know as ‘Nabadweep of South”.  It was Kasinath Roy, who build this palace with identical look of Burdwan Raj bari. The mansion itself exudes elegance and a spacious place left in front of the facade adds to its magnificence. He also erected Annapurna Temple and  fourteen Siva temples. 
There was a small causes court in the backyard of the Rajbari. Durga pujo was started in 1770 by Raj Narayan Roy who was conferred “Raja” title by Lord Aukland.  There were all kind of entertainment, including dancing by ‘Nauch girls’ in the “Baitakkhana” which had a highly polished wooden floor is now in a desolate look and morbid state.  The family had a very unique style of immersion. The deity was carried to the nearby Saraswati River and cannon were fired to cause the impact for her immersion.  The pujo is now carried out by their  descendents  and a fair is opened up in the courtyard where  lip smacking delicacies like Gaga, Khaja and Nimki are available which one should definitely taste.

The time, when Kolkata was neither called ‘Calcutta’, nor addressed as ‘Sutanuti’ the history of Sabarna Roychowdhury family is older than the olden days of Calcutta. It’s true. The glory of Sabarna Roychowdhury family begun with the powerful existence of Lt. Shri. Laxmikant Roy. He was the first man to initiate Durga Puja in his family. It was in 1610. But the history whispers something different…..Shri. Laxmikant did perform Durga Puja in his father’s house, situated in ‘HaliShahar’ in 1600. But no such evidence has been found to prove it.
The famous Vaishnaba poet Shri. Bidyapati asserted in his book, namely “Durga bhakti tarangini” that the durga puja in Sabarna Roychowdhury family had been officially commenced in ‘Barishal” in 1610. On that time Barishal was very planned and prosperous city. This is known at that time that Sabarna Roychowdhury family is an exclusive one in Bengal who worship mother goddess in “Durga bhakti tarangini” method. No other traditional pujo is being solemnized in such way.
 The Durga idol of this family is unique for its presentation. The ‘Kathamo’ (Structure) is divided into three parts. At the top, the “DASA MAHABIDYA” exists. Shiva and Ram settle on the both side of maa Durga. The color of Durga maa is like a ‘Atasi Flower’. In the earlier period 13 Pantha(goat) and a ‘Mosh’(Buffalo) were sacrificed by the Sabarnas, but in the today’s ethos, ‘Pashu Boli’ (Sacrificing animals) is prohibited.

The kind hearted Zamindaar, Shri. Laxmikant Roy invited everybody irrespective of casts and creeds to take initiatives in the puja to make it grand success. During those festive days , the courtyard of Sabarna Roychowdhury family had been filled up with the  hums of delight. One more authentic incident about puja should be brought on to the light . In Sabarna Roychowdhury family, Kartika was not supposed to be worshipped with the goddess Durga, as  their ancestors believed that Kartika was the deity of low graded people of the society. But shri. Laxmikant Roy added the name of Kartika, who would be worshipped then onward. It’s a hearsay, that the first Kartika of the Sabarna Roychowdhury family was being articulated like Laxmikant Roy.


Now the time has changed. In the changing face of time, one thing is remained unchanged, that is the celebration of Durga puja in Sabarna Roychowdhury family. Right from the very inception , Maa Durga has been worshipped with great devotion by maintaining all the rituals , once upheld by their forefathers .This year Sabarna Roychowdhury family is going to add another glorious page of performing Durga puja with primitive thought and belief. Maa is coming to her paternal house. 
The family members are quite busy in doing pre puja preparation . the hue and cry has already been started  in the “Andarmahal” of Sabarna family. From the time immemorial, worshipping of Maa Durga has been performed in different form with different manner, but the Sabarnas started worshipping maa as a “DURGA” for the first time in Bengal. Most of the kins and relatives has  settled in the other part of the world. This is such a imperial family, where eight Durga pujas has been celebrated. The venues are ”Aatchala bari”, “Mejo Bari”, “Baro Bari”, “Benaki Bari”, “Majher Bari”, “Kalikinkar Bari”. These Houses are situated in Behala Barisha. Rest of the two houses are situated in Dum Dum Birati and in Nimta. During the festive time the doors are opened for all.
 The puja commences well on time maintaining 'Nirghanta'. There is a detailed method to worshiping Goddess Durga that are mentioned in the scriptures. Items which are needed for the ritual worship of the goddess should be collected beforehand so that the ritual is performed smoothly. The special bhog for maa durga is made by the family members of the Sabarnas, and the Thakurmosai take care of cooking Bhog for the 'Atithis' (Guests). During puja day Durga maa is offered a Thal, consists of Plain rice, Ghee rice, Khichiri with seven types of fried dishes, different types of vegetable dishes, Chatni and the dessert thal, consists of curd, variety of sandesh. Last but not the least,a palatable fish dish is also being offered to maa. These rituals are more or less same in the bonedi parivaar, bur Sabarnas are distinct, as always. Here the Asura is not being neglected by the family members. “Masbhaktabali” is  made for Asur. Mixing ghee with Maskalai, a mando is prepared which is put in order in 80 small pots. On the auspicious days of Ashtami and Navami “Masbhaktabali” is offered to Asur as a token of gratitude because he is not supposed to create any hindrance during these festive days.


Another speciality of the Sabarna Roychowdhury family is a making of  'Sabarna Pranmohini'. The present day joint secretary, Shri Debarshi said “I tasted ‘Pranmohini’cooked by my grand mom Lt. Smt. Bharati Roychowdhury”. “Smt. Bharati Roychowdhury came to know about the receipe of 'Sabarna Pranmohini' from her mother in law Lt. smt. Kamalini Devi”, added Shri Debarshi. In the olden days of Sabarna Roychowdhury family, Kamalini Devi often prepared ‘Pranmohini” and offered to the guests and relatives.

For those , who look out for spiritual solace away from the metropolitan extravagance during the five days of Durga Puja …..Don’t miss to visit Crazy Wanderers Bengal.




Email us at travel@crazywanderers.com or call us at 09239 199737 or 0933065 9957.

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